The Construction of Apparel Brand Value Perception Based on Grounded Theory : A Case Study of the Intellectual 80 ’ s Women in Hangzhou

In terms of the theoretical vacancy of apparel brand perceived value, this paper explores the dimensions of perceived value of apparel brand from the perspective of consumers. With lessons from grounded theory, one can build initial model of apparel brand value system through depth interviews, substantial coding, and theoretical saturation detection. Then, by means of quantitative empirical research, the logical relationship between factors can be investigated via factor analysis and independent test. The results show that the perceived value theory conclude two dimensions namely the perceived benefits and perceived costs. The perceived benefits includes functional value, social value, emotional value, cognitive value, experience value. Perceived costs includes purchase costs &risks and the use cost. It also fully demonstrates the relative importance in perceiving various dimensions of apparel brand for the intellectual 80’s women in Hangzhou.

With the rapid development of information technology, the globalization process is irresistible, making the consumer oriented retail market more complex and changeable.The apparel market also develops from traditional price competition, quality competition and scale competition to the brand competition.It not only brings the opportunity to the garment enterprises, but also brings challenge.The apparel enterprises are increasingly aware that only in depth understanding of the consumer demand and decision-making process can create a competitive brand; They also realize that only by constantly improving brand value can keep garment enterprises alive in fierce competition.Therefore, the research of brand value enhancement has gradually become the research hot spot of clothing social psychology and marketing.Perceived value, as a measure of consumers' "gain" and "loss" of brands, is an essential consideration in brand strategy performance appraisal.And it is thus clear that reasonable value construction and brand operation through functional value and non functional value is an effective way to enhance the competitiveness of apparel brand.Therefore, enhancing the perceived value of consumers is the industry demand and trend, and it is the strategic goal of the transformation and upgrading of the apparel brand.

Perceived Value and Research Review
In 1990s, Keller put forward the brand value based on customers.That is, the Customer Perceived Value (CPV), which refers to the overall evaluation of the product or service utility after the trade-off between the perceived benefits of consumers and the cost of product or service.It is the subjective cognition of consumers to value of products or services.The subjective cognition of value is different from the objective value, which is also a common point of view in the academic world.Since then, there has been a lot of research on brand value from the perspective of customers.However, due to the subjectivity and dynamics of consumer perceived value, the similarity of "perceived value" proposed by scholars is not the same.Most scholars believe that perceived value has three aspects as following: (1) Consumer perceived value is acquired by customers rather than products or services.(2) The perceived value is determined by the perception of consumers, not the imagination or desire of the enterprise (Khalifa, 2004)

Experience value
Service property Service provided by the brand.

Desirable
Brand clothing meets my expectations in terms of quality, culture, personality, and so on.

Monetary cost
The money cost of buying brand clothing.

Risk cost
Risk cost of buying brand clothing.

Convenience
The convenience of buying brand clothing, such as transportation, payment, and so on.

Cost of use Maintenance cost
Loss of time, energy and money caused by unmanageable conditions.

Research Program
After the qualitative research has drawn the main categories of apparel brand perception value, the initial model of brand perception value is established, and the quantitative analysis is carried out to clarify the relative importance of the variables.The scale used in quantitative research is on the basis of the maturity scale of domestic and foreign scholars' literature, and combined with the adjustment of apparel brand characteristics.So the specific items of the seven main categories in the initial model are determined, and the initial questionnaire is formed.In the design of the scale, we mainly refer to the perceived value theory of Sheth. (1991), Zeithaml et al. (2000), Sweeney & Sou tar (2001), the customer experience theory of Sch mitt, and the perceived risk theory of Strader & Shaw.The measurement scales of these scholars are already mature, and have been verified by many other researchers.However, because this research object is different from the traditional product or service, it requires the author to re-examine the dimensions of perceived value.Therefore, in the design of each dimension scale, it takes into account the popularity of clothing, apparel brand characteristics, and the service experience.
Based on the initial scale, this paper makes some supplements and modifications to the items.In order to ensure the reliability and validity of the research scale, a revised questionnaire was formed after a small sample survey and four measurement terms (F25, F27, F29 and F44) with low correlation were eliminated.And the revised measurement indexes are shown in Table 2.

Data Statistics and Analysis
The formal questionnaire is divided into two parts: the first part is the individual basic information; the second part is the measurement of apparel brand perception value.Based on two main axes of perceived benefit and perceived cost, this survey measures the importance of each dimension of apparel brand value.For the importance of the indexes, we use 7-Likert scale to measure.The higher the score is, the more reasonable the evaluation index is.The subjects mainly focus on the intellectual 80's women, because "80's" has become one of the main groups of clothing consumption.Most of them have high literacy, high education, and have a high position in the society.They pay more attention to the culture and symbolic meaning of the brand compared with other women.The questionnaire survey lasted for 3 months, and a total of 563 questionnaires were collected.After screening, 540 effective questionnaires were selected, and the efficiency of the questionnaire recovery was 95.91%.The basic information of the respondents: The educational level of undergraduate, master, doctor and above accounted for 58.9%, 35.63% and 5.48% of the total respectively; And the occupations of students in  (Fi > 4).That is, the respondents who choose more than 4 (5, 6, 7) think the index is important, and the greater the P (Fi > 4), the more important the Fi is.
According to the factor analysis, the factor score coefficient of Fi and the corresponding explanatory variable is obtained, and then the factor score is calculated through the factor score function.In the formula, Fi is the factor and Fxy is the explanatory variable corresponding to each factor.In addition, when the mean value is close to 4, the attitude of the intellectual 80's women in Hangzhou is not clear.According to the results of Table 4, the mean values of F3, F5, F6 and F7 are all close to 4. Therefore, in order to further judge the importance of these 4 variables, we need to calculate the probability that the variables fall between the interval (3, 5).Because P (3, 5) represents the probability that the attitude of the respondents to the selected variable is almost indifferent (see Table 5).From table 5, we can see that the probability of Emotional value (F3), Experience value (F5), cost of payment (F6), and cost of use (F7) in the interval (3, 5) are great difference.Especially, the probability of Experience value (F5), cost of payment (F6), and cost of use (F7), respectively, 63.51%, 69.38% and 90.97%.That is to say, customers who are not clear about these factors still occupy a large proportion.Therefore, through the management of customer value, we can guide these uncertain customers to develop in favor of enterprises.

F1F63
high social popularity and reputation F22: Can help me set up a good personal image F23: Able to be myself F24: Let me get identity of the people around me F25: Give me superiority feeling (Screened out) F26: Meet the needs of the special situation F27: Let me feel confident in social situations (Screened out) F28: Can convey a specific cultural connotation F29: Give my friends and friends brand clothing, make me feel decent (Screened out) customer service reliability of brand clothing F52: The service ability of brand staff is strong F53: Can provide personalized service F54: Can provide services that meet my expectations F55: The shopping environment is comfortable and tasteful product / service provides the value that is consistent with the price F62: It is less likely to buy poor quality or fake goods

Table 1 .
. (3) Perceived value can influence consumers' purchase intention to a certain extent.correspondingtheoreticalcoding are shown in Table1.During the interview, I found that the consumer in the actual brand adoption behavior, the main categories have different contributions, because of the situation or motivation different.It may only be influenced by one value of the perceived value, but in most cases it is the result of more than two value interactions.The main categories of perceived value of apparel brand

Table 2 .
Revised perceived value measurement scale The mean value, standard deviation, Z-score (Fi > 4) and probability P (Fi > 4) of the 540 samples of Fi are calculated, and the statistical value of Fi is showed in table 4. According to the table 4, the intellectual 80's women in Hangzhou pay attention to the perceived value apparel brands is following: functional value (81.59%), social value (71.69%), cognitive value (71.57%), payment cost (68.08%),experience value (62.17%), emotional value (50.80%), and use cost.(35.94%).